Cosmetics and beauty is a multibillion dollar industry and companies involved spend millions of dollars in research and development.

In the quest to provide the best solutions for consumers’ cosmetic and beauty needs, most companies engage the services of professionals to come up with the best products and solutions.

It is to this end that recently, Dr Willem Visser, head of Dermatology, Stellenbosch University in South Africa, was awarded the L’Oréal African Hair & Skin research grant for his research on acne keloidalis nuchae (AKN). 

The award is open to all dermatologists and African PhD students specialising in the science of skin and hair.

The condition
Acne keloidalis kuchae (AKN) is a skin and hair condition that predominantly affects males with afro-textured hair and patients of African or mixed descent.

AKN affects the nape of the neck and produces pustules, results in permanent hair loss and large areas of scarring.

The exact causes of AKN are not clear. However, the condition has been attributed to a few possible causes. It may be due to the failure of the immune system to distinguish between the individual’s own hair and foreign, invading pathogens.

Therefore, the body will start to launch an attack on the hair shaft, in addition to the follicle and sebaceous oil glands. When bacteria propagates, the inflammation becomes more intense as the immune system tries to attack both the microbes as well as the hair shaft.

Other researchers suggest that AKN is caused by close shaving, skin friction and irritation from collars and athletic wear. These environmental variables break the hair and encourage the highly curled shafts to grow back into the skin.

This assumption has some degree of support from one study which shows that in 90 per cent of individuals affected, the symptoms started to emerge after using an electric razor to shave the head.

Close shaving with a razor would on the account of many patients preceded the emergence of the first lesions.

AKN may also affect areas beyond the nape of the neck. Dr Visser’s study aims to investigate the earliest manifestations of its spread. The descriptive study’s objective is to describe the dermatoscopic and histopathological features of sub-clinical or early acne keloidalis nuchae. The objective of the study is to empower dermatologists to identify early markers of the disease.

For patients who are already diagnosed with AKN and in the care of a dermatologist, this study will aim to provide clinical tools to assess further spread of the disease.
According to Dr Visser, “If this disease is diagnosed early on, treatment may be initiated sooner and the distress associated with this disorder may be significantly lessened.” 

The grant supports a one-year research project in sub-Saharan Africa and the winner receives 10,000 euros. The research grant aims to promote clinical and basic research on ethnic skin and hair physiology conducted by African scientists in Africa.

Focus areas for the research projects includes:   

• Skin immunology
• Skin photobiology
• Wound healing
• Skin colour, skin pigmentation
• Skin barrier function, Stratum Corneum
• Skin neurophysiology/itch sensitive skin/heat sensation
• Skin aging
• Skin tissue engineering
• Sebaceous physiology and oily skin epidemiology
• Hair characterisation
• Biology of hair growth
• Hair pigmentation
• Hair loss

The jury is made up of seven African and two international experts with the necessary expertise in their respective areas. Jury member and renowned dermatologist, Prof Ncoza Dlova from the University of Kwa-Zulu Natal described the research as “relevant, practical, important and innovative.’’

L’Oreal’s recently inaugurated Research & Innovation Centre in Johannesburg will collaborate with the African scientific ecosystem, universities, dermatologists, natural biodiversity centers as well as hairdressers, according to explains Dr Michele Verschoore, the medical director of L’Oreal Research & Innovation.