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A symphony of flavours at Banana Bar & Bistro

Tuesday April 30 2024
BANANABAR(2)

The beautifully decorated corridor at Banana Bar and Bistro in Kampala, Uganda on April 15, 2024. PHOTO | PURITY WANJOHI | NMG

By PURITY WANJOHI

'Have you tried our famous hanging skewers? They’re one of our best sellers,” he asked.

“Nope,” I responded. “Let’s try them.”

He said the food would take 15 minutes.

Located along Luthuli Rise in Bugolobi, Kampala, Banana Bar & Bistro is a classic example of the adage, “don’t judge a book by its cover”.

Its entrance is simple: Signage inspired by the blue and white street signs on American roads that reads “Banana AV”. AV means “avenue”. The co-owners, Abel Abere and Nardos Alemneh, are daring to shake Uganda’s dining experience with a quirky chic restaurant.

They are cousins.

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“The customers who walk through our doors decided on their own volition to come here. We also choose to honour their effort by putting in effort as well, offering them an experience worth their time and money,” says Abere.

Born in Ethiopia and brought up in America, this is a culmination of their childhood memories, life and travel experiences. The duo has lived on every continent of the world, thanks to their globe-trotting families and careers.

Alemneh, an engineer, breathed life into the restaurant’s design, transforming the old, rundown house that they found there within nine months. The floorplan begins from the pre-existing house and driveway. It makes use of timber frames — painted white, white drapes, white curtains and translucent iron sheets catching the sun.

“I wanted to create a Mediterranean vibe drawn from my travels in Italy. Cities like Florence, Rome and Venice have this kind of feel to them. Because I love arches, drapes and curtains, I put all that together and this was the result,” he offers.

The designer also took advantage of the canopy provided by the gigantic trees; some more than 30 years old. Because of this, everything is tailored to fit the space: The built structure, long and high bamboo seats, their accompanying white cushions and serving tables in both the bar and restaurant sections. It’s evident that great care was taken to ensure that no tree was felled in pursuit of the purse.

Loud music

There’s also an extensive use of tall coloured pots, potted and planted plants, live hedges and artificial plants and flowers, and the use of American road signs for direction to the different sections. The bamboo plants in white trenches are generously used as air-purifiers and screens creating a feeling of privacy while the red parasols, artificial plants add splashes of colour and the breezy beach vibes. There’s a decorated rooftop VIP section with a spectacular view of the surrounding area, and a thatched outdoor area.

The idea of a Banana Bar & Bistro in Uganda began as a conversation in Southeast Asia where Abere was successfully running another eatery of the same name. Alemneh recalls the conversation: “Abel kept on saying how much he missed home. So, we thought, why don’t we recreate Banana Bar in Uganda.”

I’m curious to find out why they chose Uganda. “Uganda has great weather, friendly people and it’s green. It has a rustic nature, a raw beauty in spirit and kindness and they’re also very outgoing,” he added having lived in Uganda since 2011.

Visits around several establishments had assured them that they’d be a market for their service.

“We would visit places in Kampala and everything was loud. It was impossible to have a conversation with my cousin or have a good time without music blasting my ears out. I knew that there had to be someone like me out there,” Abere, who has been in the hospitality industry for over two decades, recalls.

Three months after opening the restaurant, Covid-19 happened. It was a “trying moment” and they wondered whether they had invested their savings in vain.

After the reopening of the economy, they bounced back. In most restaurants, you’d be hard-pressed to find the owner. Not at Banana Bistro. They understand that while the ambience of an eatery brings in people, service is the engine that keeps it running.

Earlier in in his career, Abere had learnt two things. One, people are not objects. Therefore, the team has resolved to be as attentive to the people as possible. It’s not unlikely to find him watering the plants, talking to the customers to find out how they’re doing, their food options and finding out if the music is Ok.

The second thing was that food is personal. A chef by passion and training, he has fond memories related to food that have informed the menu he’s handcrafted for Banana Bar’s mature middle and upper class and corporate clientele.

It features foods such as chicken wings which he grew up on, fresh guacamole and tacos that are a reminder of his life in the states and a lot of roasts and grills, a staple in the local Ugandan culture.

“I serve home-made food made with a lot of love, and I want my customers to know that,” he says, sharing that there was a time he ate eggs daily for three weeks while living in Denmark because he didn’t know how to cook.

Service means having enriching events like the different entertainment segments, weekend brunches and monthly events that keep the door revolving, including a monthly wine tasting and art exhibition. About 15 minutes later, my order arrives and it’s literally hanging.

Chunks of well-marinated chicken and beef suspended on hooks served with sautéed spinach and parsley potatoes and a gravy sauce.

In 10 years, where do they see Banana Bar? “We want it to be a landmark in Kampala, a place where people come and have a good experience, a clean environment, beautiful ambience and respectful space where people can connect through conversation.”

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