NJUGUNA NDUNG’U

Njuguna Ndung’u, AERC Executive Director, former Governor Central Bank of Kenya.

Italian food served al fresco at hidden gem in Nairobi

Sunday October 24 2021

Matteo's Italian Restaurant. PHOTO | KARI MUTU

Summary

My friends and I sat outside on the patio as it was a beautiful sunny day
One of my lunch companions went for ricotta cheese and spinach ravioli in creamy butter and sage sauce.
A thick fish soup made with a tomato base sounds like a heart-warming option on a cold day and the crispy octopus in potato cream piqued my interest.

By KARI MUTU

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An outdoor ambience, great food and wine at Matteo’s Italian Restaurant characterised my first visit to Matteo’s Restaurant and Pizzeria in Karen, Nairobi.

It took me a while to find the rather obscure signboard at the gate and it is hard to tell from the main road that there is an eatery behind the wall. Once I entered the restaurant I realised why I did not recognise the place. The extensive grounds were formerly a residence and horse farm. Some of the barns have been converted into the indoor part of the restaurant.

My friends and I sat outside on the patio as it was a beautiful sunny day. The white table cloths and full table settings brought a smart look to the place, and the big potted plants and a garden view created a relaxing ambience.

We started our meal with a typical Italian appetiser of focaccia bread topped with cherry tomatoes, chunks of mozzarella cheese and rucola leaves. Drizzled with olive oil and a shake of black pepper, focaccia bread is a great way to whet one’s appetite.

For the main course I chose the marinated grilled lamb chops, which may not sound like a quintessentially Italian meal. But in the highlands of Italy where sheep are raised, lamb is consumed more than any other meat. The chops were nicely seasoned, came with a pepper gravy and accompaniments of chips and creamy spinach.

One of my lunch companions went for ricotta cheese and spinach ravioli in creamy butter and sage sauce. It is a simple Italian dish and delicious, especially with a generous sprinkle of parmesan cheese and ground black pepper. My other friend selected the grilled calamari with a lemon butter sauce that she really enjoyed.

Calamari served at Matteo's Italian Restaurant. PHOTO | KARI MUTU

On the menu I saw that Matteo’s has a wide selection of seafood dishes. The fritto misto is a combination of deep-fried seafood, served with chips and vegetables. A thick fish soup made with a tomato base sounds like a heart-warming option on a cold day and the crispy octopus in potato cream piqued my interest.

The beverage menu has a substantial selection of wines, cocktails, juices and fruit smoothies. For our lunch, we ordered a chilled rose wine that was light-bodied enough to pair well with the main courses that we chose.

I can rarely resist a good cheesecake so that is what I had for dessert. Matteo’s makes a wonderful, soft-filling cheesecake topped with sliced strawberries and a coulis sauce.

Because of the nice garden setting, fine weather and good wine we ended up staying at Matteo’s until early evening.

Due to Covid-19, Matteo’s had stopped their weekly jazz nights and live bands but I understand they have restarted the events. I will definitely be back for that

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Echoes from the past at the Takwa ruins in Lamu

Sunday October 24 2021

One of the few standing coral and limestone walls of the mosque area of the Takwa Ruins, in Lamu. PHOTO | KARI MUTU

Summary

There is a small museum on site but with little information or items on display, apart from an impressive siwa — a huge, curved horn instrument made from etched brass and blown from the side.
Passing through a gateway in a town wall we came into a clearing under the shade of giant baobab trees said to be about 400 years old.
The ruins were first excavated in the 1950s and more work was done in the 1970s. Takwa became a gazetted monument in 1982 and is under the care of the National Museums of Kenya.

By KARI MUTU

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The history buff in me enjoys peering into the past and a visit to Takwa Ruins of Lamu Island served an interesting insights into the history of coastal Kenya.

From our Shela area abode in Lamu, we took a 30-minute boat ride to Manda Island, over calm waters in mangrove-lined channels. The ruins are located in the south-eastern region of Manda, the largest of the Lamu islands.

Takwa Ruins architecture remains in remarkably fine condition. PHOTO | KARI MUTU

We purchased tickets at the National Museums of Kenya office and were allocated a guide. There is a small museum on site but with little information or items on display, apart from an impressive siwa — a huge, curved horn instrument made from etched brass and blown from the side. Siwa horns were usually owned by upper-class Swahili people along the East African coast.

Our guide proved to be a talking encyclopaedia. Takwa was occupied in the 15th and 16th centuries but deserted in the 17th century due to a lack of fresh water and constant warring between the people of Takwa and Pate Island.

The protective town wall is still in place, constructed from coral ragstone or limestone that is exceptionally hard and durable. Sentry holes in the wall would have been used to keep watch on happenings outside. Takwa seems remarkably well preserved despite the hundreds of years.

Passing through a gateway in a town wall we came into a clearing under the shade of giant baobab trees said to be about 400 years old. The first thing we came to was the exterior of the mosque with a tall pillar tower and arched sidewalls. A prominent Sheikh is said to be buried beneath the pillar.

In the sunken floor of an ablution area outside are embedded old ceramic plates from China and Portugal. Inside the mosque is a beautifully intact mirbah, a semi-circular niche cut into the wall that indicates the direction of Mecca that Muslims face when praying. There are Arabic inscriptions carved into the wall, with the names of Allah, Prophet Mohammed, various historic leaders and the date 1094.

Rain pilgrimage

Further inside the town remains are more half-standing walls that may have lined streets and buildings in its heyday. Takwa was an important sea port and trading stop during its peak.

Residents are thought to have moved into other places in the Lamu archipelago. Although the place has not been occupied for over 300 years, the ruins are still used as a prayer site by the people of Lamu and twice a year they come to the pillar tomb to pray for rain.

A heap of rocks on the grounds is testimony to how limestone for construction was prepared by burning coral over piles of firewood. Near the ruins are a few homesteads and cats, but otherwise Takwa is very quiet.

The ruins were first excavated in the 1950s and more work was done in the 1970s. Takwa became a gazetted monument in 1982 and is under the care of the National Museums of Kenya.

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Plant-based meat: What nutritional value does it add?

Sunday October 24 2021

Plant-based meat alternatives have become popular with weight watchers . PHOTO | COURTESY

Summary

Beyond Meat, a plant-based meat brand was recently launched in Kenya, making the country the latest country on the continent where one can subscribe and receive a door-step delivery of meat alternatives in the form of sausage, burger, spaghetti Bolognese and even meatballs.
Kenya is the fourth country after South Africa, Mauritius and Botswana where Infinite Foods, Africa’s pioneering plant-based company is offering its meat alternatives brand, and the first in the region.
A vegetarian diet typically includes vegetables, fruits, grains, beans and nuts and little or no meat. A vegetarian could eat dairy products, eggs and honey.

By PAULINE KAIRU

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There is a growing movement around the world of a “plant-forward” lifestyle for reasons ranging from health benefits, ethics, religous beliefs, saving the environment and even simply, to stop the slaughter or animals who have a right to life.

Would you give up meat for any of these reasons? Would you eat ‘’fake’’ meat?

Beyond Meat, a plant-based meat brand was recently launched in Kenya, making the country the latest country on the continent where one can subscribe and receive a door-step delivery of meat alternatives in the form of sausage, burger, spaghetti Bolognese and even meatballs. Think of any meat product and there is a plant-based alternative with options of beef, pork and poultry.

The products are made of lab-grown meat replica.

Kenya is the fourth country after South Africa, Mauritius and Botswana where Infinite Foods, Africa’s pioneering plant-based company is offering its meat alternatives brand, and the first in the region. Infinite Foods has collaborated with Beyond Meat, a Los Angeles plant-based protein and imitation meat producer to bring the brand to Africa.

The meat alternatives will fulfil the growing consumer demand for plant-based food options in Kenya, where a growing number of health conscious people and weightwatchers are increasingly embracing ‘’healthy’’ diets, and fueling a non-meat eating culture, plant-based milk products, and general plant-based foods as alternatives to animal products including not just meat, but seafood, dairy and eggs.

According to dieticians who spoke to The EastAfrican, suitably planned plant-based diets, are healthy, nutritionally adequate and may provide health benefits in the prevention and treatment of certain diseases, but there is a caveat; These “must be well-planned.”

A nutrition biologist at Lishe Living in Kenya, Job Omondi, says the biggest impairment of a non-meat diet is the vitamin B12 deficiency, a vitamin solely derived from animal products. “This is a very serious issue because not having enough B12 can lead to anaemia and result in the body not having enough red blood cells to do their job. Also, Vitamin B12 deficiency can cause damage to the nerves and can affect memory and thinking. But then the informed non-meat eaters are substituting this with supplemental B12 pills.”

He notes most of the concerns of non-meat eaters where nutrients are concerned including B12, iron, calcium, iodine, omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin D.

There are many different terms to describe non-meat eaters, including veganism and vegetarianism.

A vegetarian diet typically includes vegetables, fruits, grains, beans and nuts and little or no meat. A vegetarian could eat dairy products, eggs and honey.

According to Valentine Young Kwadha, the group chief nutritionist at Mediheal Group of Hospitals in Kenya, a vegan is a stricter vegetarian who does not eat any food derived from animals and who typically does not use other animal products.

According to Kwadha, “Some people have taste and smell receptors that detect a steroid called androstenone and others have two copies of the gene that senses androstenone and smell the odour of and might have a mixed reaction to meat. For those who are very sensitive to it, they find meat really disgusting hence the avoidance.”

“One common motivation for shunning meat and going vegetarian is the promised health benefits. The vegan diet is generally considered to be higher in fiber and lower in cholesterol, protein, calcium and salt than an omnivorous diet,” said Kwadha.

“Eating a lot of red meat and processed meats can increase a person’s risk of heart disease and cancer. Cutting back on processed meats can improve your health. People who eat a vegetarian diet are less likely to have problems like obesity, heart disease, high blood pressure or diabetes but it’s not clear if this is a direct result of the diet,” he added.

He argues that because vegans typically live a generally healthier lifestyle keeping off alcohol, smoking and exercising more, it could be these lifestyle factors combined, that mainly contribute to a lower risk of heart disease and mortality, attributing the vegan diet to being healthier than it may actually be.

“There are still uncertainties around the vegan diet, particularly when it comes to long-term effects. Vegans have a lower body mass index (BMI) which means better cholesterol levels and lower blood pressure, which is a major risk factor for heart disease. The vegan diet is much like any other. It can help to lower your risk of disease, or increase it depending on the foods you eat. If you compare a plant-based diet with one that includes meat, the plant-based diet is certainly better,” he notes.

Cubes of fried fake meat. PHOTO | COURTESY

But he says a diet high in fruit, vegetables, legumes and low in meat is healthier. There is a lot more digging and scientific data to be collected before its known for certain if veganism is healthier than any other diet – especially when it comes to long-term health effects, he says. In the meantime, he advises that the best vegan diet is one that includes fruits and vegetables, seeds, and B12 supplements and less vegan junk food.

“A transition to more plant-based diets may exert beneficial effects on the environment, but is unlikely to affect obesity, and may also have adverse health effects if this change is made without careful consideration of the nutritional needs of the individual relative to the adequacy of the dietary intake,” he says.

“If you eat a vegetarian or vegan diet, it’s a good idea to talk to your dietitian about whether you should take any supplements. They can help you figure out what nutrients you are getting and not getting from the foods you eat. They can also tell you how and when to take supplements if you need them.”

He warns that the more restricted any diet, the more likely it is to be unbalanced and deficient in one or another nutrient. “This rule applies to vegetarian diets as well as to bizarre, weight-loss diets.”

According to Kwadha, “meatless meats contain more salt that is added to vegan fast foods to give the same meaty rewarding sensation that would otherwise be missing. Coconut oil is frequently the fat of choice in vegan cheese alternatives. This is because coconut oil is very high in saturated fats. In fact, it has higher levels than animal fats.”

Michelle Adelman, founder and chief executive of Infinite Foods said, “We have registered excitement around the arrival of Beyond Meat in the region. With the growing desire for healthier food options in daily diets without sacrificing taste, we are confident that Kenyans will embrace these new products.”

Beyond Meat products -- plant-based burgers, beef mince and brat sausage -- are now available at GreenSpoon, an online food store in Kenya.

The products are certified as Kosher and Halal.

Infinite Foods Kenya’s general manager Fred Njagi said, “This is a step forward in giving both plant-forward and meat loving Kenyans more options to maintain a healthier and more environmentally friendly diet.”

Sausages by Beyond Meat. PHOTO | COURTESY OF BEYOND MEAT

Environmental and ethical concerns around the meat industry are also driving interest in plant-based alternatives and the potential for lab-grown products.

Recent scientific studies have suggested that avoiding meat and dairy products is one of the effective ways to reduce one’s environmental impact, and generally speaking, food production is blamed for a quarter of all greenhouse gas emissions contributing to global warming.

Kenyan dietician and founder of Bonsana Nutrition & Wellness, Susan Musilu-Thinji explained that “Most food choices are based on personal preferences influenced partly by culture. But a person may have an aversion to meat because of taste or even texture.”

She said vegetarianism may reduce the risk of chronic illnesses like diabetes, heart diseases and some cancers. “Avoiding meat has been used in management of some diseases,” she says, adding, “When balanced, being vegetarian has been shown effective in weight management.”

Ms Thinji however cautions, “vegans are at risk for some nutrient deficiencies especially vitamin B12 only found in animal products. Other nutrients to keep an eye on are calcium, vitamin D, iron and zinc. With an exception of vitamin B 12, a well-planned vegetarian diet can meet a person’s dietary needs. One just needs to be aware of their nutritional needs.”

Poor bone density and fractures may be common due to possible lower calcium intake, and the likelihood of B12 deficiency. There is the link between omega 3 deficiency and depression.

Mr Kwadha says while plenty of plants, like whole grains, legumes and spinach are rich in iron, it is not always the best type. “Non-haem iron is not as well absorbed by the body. Being iron deficient is a problem, particularly for women whose iron requirement for menstruation is higher. While dairy products are also a good source of B12, he argues that plant sources of B12 are less easily taken up by the body.”

The concern, as far as he is concerned is that the health risks associated with these kinds of nutrient deficiencies might not show up immediately. It could take years to associate foggy thoughts and tiredness with low B12 levels, infertility with low iron, and osteoporosis brought on by calcium deficiency does not show up until later in the 40s and 50s in most people.

“So, while you might reach for that plant-based burger with the best of intentions, remember exactly what it is – fast food – and be prepared for the fact that it might even be worse for you than its meaty cousin,” he warns.

“Producers and investors in plant-based and cultured meat hope it will rival the taste, cost and convenience of conventional meat. Some think it could take the place of our most environmentally-damaging meats and help meet climate targets,” he added.

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US denies any part in Zimbabwe economic woes

Sunday October 24 2021

A demo denouncing economic sanctions against Zimbabwe, in Harare, in October 2019. PHOTO | AFP

Summary

Washington spoke as the UN special rapporteur on the negative impact of unilateral coercive measures on human rights arrived in Zimbabwe to “assess the impact of punitive economic sanctions on ordinary Zimbabweans.”
Ned Price, the US State Department spokesperson, said Washington was not responsible for Zimbabwe’s economic collapse.
Western countries first imposed sanctions on Zimbabwe in 2003 after accusing the regime of the late Robert Mugabe of human rights violations and electoral fraud.

By KITSEPILE NYATHI

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The US has defended its two decades-old sanctions against Zimbabwe saying they only targeted those that undermine democratic processes or facilitate corruption.

Washington spoke as the UN special rapporteur on the negative impact of unilateral coercive measures on human rights arrived in Zimbabwe to “assess the impact of punitive economic sanctions on ordinary Zimbabweans.”

Belarusian Alena Douhan met President Emmerson Mnangagwa on Monday to begin her 10-day mission that will include meetings with top government officials.

Ned Price, the US State Department spokesperson, said Washington was not responsible for Zimbabwe’s economic collapse.

“Our sanctions there target human rights abusers and those who undermine democratic processes or facilitate corruption,” Price said.

“I want to be clear that the sanctions do not target the Zimbabwean people. Zimbabwe’s economic ills, we know, are caused by leaders abusing power, not US sanctions.

Targeted individuals

“Our sanctions target only 83 individuals and 37 entities. We review our sanctions list regularly to acknowledge developments in Zimbabwe. They make it more difficult for targeted individuals and entities to access funds through the global financial infrastructure,” he added.

“We do not target Zimbabwe’s banking sector, but rather ensure sanctioned individuals and entities cannot use the US financial system to enjoy their ill-gotten gains.

“Blaming US sanctions for Zimbabwe’s problems detracts from the core issues of better governance, and to that end, Zimbabwe must make reforms consistent with its constitution.”

Western countries first imposed sanctions on Zimbabwe in 2003 after accusing the regime of the late Robert Mugabe of human rights violations and electoral fraud.

After the coup that toppled Mugabe in 2017, President Mnangagwa pushed a re-engagement policy, but the US and the UK have imposed sanctions on some of his key allies accused of corruption and human rights violations.

He is accused of failing to keep his promises to reform and human rights violations.

Zimbabwe maintains that the sanctions are an attempt to push for regime change.

“These sanctions are illegal and hurt the most vulnerable in our society,” President Mnangagwa’s office said.

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Hackers skim $4m off banks in Uganda

Sunday October 24 2021

Ugandan banks lost over $4 million to hackers in the past one year, according to a data released by Interpol Uganda on October 17. PHOTO | FILE | NMG

Summary

Issuance of fake visas led to the loss of $542,500 while online business fraudsters siphoned $112,441 from users over the same period.
However, traditional cybersecurity measures are being rendered ineffective as cyber attackers devise new and more dangerous ways to pilfer critical data and money.
The attacks come as snares in the form of file hashes, Internet Protocol links, zip files, execution files, applications. Spear phishing, botnets, malware, ransomware, dedicated denial of service and advanced persistent threat make the cyber security space complex for many banks.

By FAUSTINE NGILA

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Ugandan banks lost over $4 million to hackers in the past one year, according to a data released by Interpol Uganda on October 17.

Interpol director Charles Birungi said the theft was carried out via technology and involved bank fraud, fake visa issuance and online business.

“Of the $4 million reported, $3 million was recorded in just 10 cases of bank fraud,” said the report.

Issuance of fake visas led to the loss of $542,500 while online business fraudsters siphoned $112,441 from users over the same period.

However, traditional cybersecurity measures are being rendered ineffective as cyber attackers devise new and more dangerous ways to pilfer critical data and money.

Cyber experts advise that banks deploy real-time data and analytics to build stronger firewalls in an evidence-based ecosystem.

“Intelligence in cyber security involves staying a step ahead of attackers, scouting for malicious leads and analysing them to better secure your data,” said Niall MacLeod, director of solutions architecture in Europe, Middle East and Africa at global threat intelligence company Anomali.

The attacks come as snares in the form of file hashes, Internet Protocol links, zip files, execution files, applications. Spear phishing, botnets, malware, ransomware, dedicated denial of service and advanced persistent threat make the cyber security space complex for many banks.

But MacLeod says by use of modern cyber software banks can automatically know when their bank is being attacked, who the adversaries are, and if the attacks have been successful.

Ugandan banks will have to commit more money to budgets towards securing their system firewalls and hiring experts in an era where ransomware is becoming a notorious way of bank theft.

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Profit from illicit mining, not political power, behind insurgency in Great Lakes

Sunday October 24 2021

Militiamen, including alleged children, of the armed group URDPC from the Lendu community. PHOTO | AFP

Summary

And in what could provide further evidence that natural resources, rather than a search for political power is behind insurgencies, a UN Special Envoy this week said countries connected by trade must be involved in ending the fighting.
The office of the UN Special Envoy for the Great Lakes Region and the ICGLR executive secretariat are undertaking advocacy to sensitise transit and destination countries of smuggled minerals to support the region's efforts.
The UN has passed Resolution 1325 and the subsequent decisions to recognise the participation of women in building, negotiating and keeping the peace and she argued that implementing this will lead to durable peace deals.

By PATRICK ILUNGA

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Huge profits from smuggling of minerals is the main reason behind a surge in rebel movements in the Great Lakes Region of Africa.

And in what could provide further evidence that natural resources, rather than a search for political power is behind insurgencies, a UN Special Envoy this week said countries connected by trade must be involved in ending the fighting.

Huang Xia, the UN Special Envoy for the Great Lakes Region says there must be unity among regional countries, and those that import minerals from the region to ensure the mines do not become a centre of bloodshed.

Mr Huang was speaking at the Annual Open Debate on the Great Lakes Region at the UN Security Council this past Wednesday in New York under the theme; "Supporting the renewed commitment of the countries of the Great Lakes region to peace and development."

Convened at the initiative of Kenya -- currently holding the presidency of the Council-- the meeting was also attended by the International Conference for the Great Lakes Region (ICGLR) Executive Secretary Joao Caholo and Martha Ama Akyaa Pobee, Under-Secretary-General for Africa. It was chaired by Raychelle Omamo, Kenya’s Cabinet Secretary for Foreign Affairs.

“The office of the UN Special Envoy for the Great Lakes Region and the ICGLR executive secretariat are undertaking advocacy to sensitise transit and destination countries of smuggled minerals to support the region's efforts,” said Mr Huang, adding that to respond effectively to this challenge, there is a need for co-operation between the states of the region, civil society, regional organisations and international partners and the United Nations.

Leaders attended the hybrid meeting to show their support and “renewed commitment of the countries of the Great Lakes region to peace and development.”

Mr Huang, said that the Great Lakes Region is experiencing positive momentum, particularly in the "continued political dialogue between the countries of the region; the increase in state visits which has given impetus to inter-state co-operation."

He said that “the rapprochement, the opening up and a series of political gestures" which constitute "a sign to be encouraged," especially after DR Congo’s President Felix Tshisekedi mended fences with neighbours recently.

President Tshisekedi has vowed to “build bridges and break down walls between states” in his recent overtures. And as the current chairperson of the African Union, he has said that it should include security co-operation and trade.

Mr Huang also praised the "commitment" of Joao Lourenço, the president of Angola who is the current chair of the International Conference for the Great Lakes Region (ICGLR), to support the peace process in DRC which has this week signed a ceasefire between its warrying parties.

Beyond the commitment of the region's leaders, emphasis was placed on the role of women in peace building as participants admitted most of the negotiations had left women out.

“The Security Council and other UN agencies must continue to encourage and design peace processes that are inclusive of the people, and particularly women at grassroots level,” said Ms Omamo.

The UN has passed Resolution 1325 and the subsequent decisions to recognise the participation of women in building, negotiating and keeping the peace and she argued that implementing this will lead to durable peace deals.

"A key role of women peace keepers must be the protection of women and children in conflict zones. In this regard women peace keepers must acquire new skills and competencies,” Omamo said. But even as countries choose dialogue, just how restrictive are their borders to discourage smuggling or illegal sale of minerals? Mr Huang said mining’s dirty money has encouraged rebel groups to keep the violence, knowing the channels are unfettered.

Commitment by countries to the military solution was also praised at the Council, with the UN special envoy welcoming “the progress in eradicating rebel groups in eastern DR Congo, while at the same time welcoming Kenya's commitment to send troops to reinforce the United Nations Stabilisation Mission in Congo. The diplomat nevertheless points out that the region continues to be infested with rebels, encouraged by the profits from contraband. The persistence of armed groups, the resurgence of attacks by the ADF, Ugandan rebels established in eastern DR Congo, and the attack on Burundi airport last September by Burundian rebels from the Resistance for the Rule of Law in Burundi, RED-Tabara, constitute threats to the peace and stability of the region, he said.

Mr Huang explains that these rebels continue to be involved in the exploitation and commercialisation of natural resources and "the income from which finances their supply of weapons and their recruitment."

The ICGLR boss Mr Caholo said; “Militias control mining sites and this must not continue," adding that "peacekeeping should avoid being involved in mineral trade or benefitting in any way from mining activities. There are accusations that some members of peacekeeping missions have promoted smuggling in the Great Lakes Region.

“Peacekeeping mission in the Great Lakes Region should be aware of the regional and international mineral judicial standard and principle which we are striving to put in place.

He urged countries in the region to strengthen cross-border monitoring.

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Cheating death in the warm sea

Saturday October 23 2021

The water was halfway up the windows of the car, and their feet were ankle deep in water. ILLUSTRATION | JOHN NYAGA

Summary

Amos’ mind was stuck in a loop, his brain barely processing their near collision with a truck on a bridge high above the Indian Ocean. He’d swerved, they’d hit the railings, then they were flying through the air and then it had all gone dark and silent for a moment.
Suddenly, there was a sharp snap as a spider-web of cracks appeared and spread evenly across the surface of the glass then exploded, letting in a massive wave of water that inundated him.
He broke to the surface with a great roar, part relief, part grief. Cherrie was sputtering and sobbing loudly now, but she seemed to be fine.

By NADYA SOMOE

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Amos’ head whipped left and right so fast that his neck looked to be a mechanical hinge and his head some sort of grotesque toy. The grimace on his face didn’t make the picture any better.

To his left and a little to the back, sat a small girl with a face frozen in fear, tears so perfectly balanced on the rims of her wide eyes that they looked painted on, decorative little jewels to accent the cute face. To his right, or more accurately in front of him, sat a woman whose face was frozen too, in horror, except she was not sitting still; she was fighting.

“Amos, move!” She yelled exasperatedly as she inhaled a huge lungful of air and clawed desperately at a belt holding her in place, “Get Cherrie! Break the window! Quickly!”

Amos’ mind was stuck in a loop, his brain barely processing their near collision with a truck on a bridge high above the Indian Ocean. He’d swerved, they’d hit the railings, then they were flying through the air and then it had all gone dark and silent for a moment. He was sure he’d blacked out, because the next thing he knew he was here, whipping his head back and forth between his wife and niece, watching as their car bobbed about and sunk slowly, almost inch by inch, in the calm, swaying ocean.

“Amos!” Cindy, his wife, stopped fighting with her seatbelt and yanked him by his collar so that they were face to face, “Hey, can you hear me?” There was a sprinkling of concern in her eyes even as fear dominated every expression and motion of her face, “You need to move, now…you won’t be able to break the windows once we go under, Amos…do you understand? Get Cherrie and go!” She shook him once again but comprehension was flooding through his mind faster than the water coming through the floorboards and saturating the floor mats.

“Okay,” he said and his voice sounded strangled, tight, “We’ll be okay,” he repeated as he fought the anxiety that was causing his hands to shake so hard he could barely unbuckle his seatbelt.

The water was halfway up the windows of the car, and their feet were ankle deep in water. It was strangely quiet, aside from his and Cindy’s ragged breathing, there wasn’t a sound. The silence felt final, like everything had stopped and now there was only this moment…there would only be this moment.

Amos twisted around in his seat and reached into the back where their niece was sitting, a statue doll who was now coming to life as her lip trembled like she would finally cry, but fear had its clutches so deep there was no room for any other emotion.

“There, there,” Amos murmured as he unbuckled Cherrie, lifted her over to sit on his lap, then took a long breath to steady himself before saying as calmly as he could, “We’re going to swim a little, and I’ll hold you…okay?”

The little girl said nothing, but clutched onto him tighter as a sudden groan filled the car. They were sinking faster, the water lapped at their knees, sloshing them to the waist. Amos turned to Cindy who was still struggling with her belt and started to reach for her.

“No!” She slapped his hands away, “Break the window Amos…Now!” She screamed as he hesitated, worry creasing his brow even more as it dawned on him that her belt was stuck. He stubbornly started to reach for her again then stopped as a dark look came over her face.

He knew that look. And so fighting all his instincts, he squirmed about in his seat, leaning back against his still struggling wife, until he could lift his leg up albeit awkwardly, and begun kicking out at the window. His leg was jarred by the force but he could feel it start to give way.

Suddenly, there was a sharp snap as a spider-web of cracks appeared and spread evenly across the surface of the glass then exploded, letting in a massive wave of water that inundated him. Choking but now in complete survival mode, Amos held Cherrie tightly as he pushed his way out of the sinking car and then kicked up towards where the sunlight was glinting prettily in the dancing water.

He broke to the surface with a great roar, part relief, part grief. Cherrie was sputtering and sobbing loudly now, but she seemed to be fine.

Treading the warm water, his muscles throbbing, Amos scanned the surface of the ocean. Cindy was a good swimmer. If she managed to writhe out of the seatbelt, and she was slim enough to do so, she was a good swimmer.

The back of his throat felt dry and a painful lump was forming so that he felt like he couldn’t breathe or swallow. She was a good swimmer. A small boat was speeding towards them and above them, the bridge was thick with onlookers, but strangely enough, Amos couldn’t hear anything but the soft sounds of the water lapping against him and the low moan of a warm breeze.

“Argh!”

The silence ripped apart like wet paper as a loud gasp behind him caused Amos to gulp down several mouthfuls of bitter salt water in fright. Thrashing her limbs to stay afloat, Cindy, panting, wild eyed and pale, surfaced.

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Bold and vivid imagery at 'Memories of the Unknown'

Saturday October 23 2021

Therapy by Safina Kimbokota at the Memories of the Unknown exhibition in Dar es Salaam. PHOTO | MATEI BABU

Summary

Kimbokota presented life size metal sculptures representing motherhood that dominated the room.
Kimbokota’s sculpture Breaking the Barrier has an inscription that reads: "Often when I am alone without my child, people are fascinated by the art I make.
Her artworks in this exhibit ooze a cinematic elegance, with sculptures made with steel wire as the predominant medium, mixed with African fabrics, plaster, elastic rubber, even hair.

By CAROLINE ULIWA

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The exhibition room at the Alliance Francaise in Dar es Salaam was awash in ambient yellow light on the opening night of Memories of the Unknown, early this month.

The exhibition featured works by Tanzanian artist Safina Kimbokota and Kenyan Eltayeb Dawelbait.

Kimbokota presented life size metal sculptures representing motherhood that dominated the room. Dawelbait’s paintings lining the walls were bold with messages of identity and beauty in forgotten spaces.

Kimbokota’s sculpture Breaking the Barrier has an inscription that reads: "Often when I am alone without my child, people are fascinated by the art I make. But to be proficient in my work I must practice a lot. When I exercise, I must have my baby too. And once I want to breastfeed I want to have that freedom too.”

She says that her pieces zoom in on the natural yet hardly celebrated process that women undergo from conception to birthing a child.

“In Tanzania, fathers are absent or aloof in the taking care of pregnant mothers until the baby is born,” said Kikombota.

Her inscription confirms her sentiments that women’s bodies are sexualised to a point that they’re made to feel uncomfortable to breastfeed babies in public, a practice that was once normal in Tanzania.

Her artworks in this exhibit ooze a cinematic elegance, with sculptures made with steel wire as the predominant medium, mixed with African fabrics, plaster, elastic rubber, even hair.

Beauty shows a pregnant woman with angel wings, in plaster, steel and a mesh of African fabrics. It speaks to the intention from the artist of celebrating the expectant female form.

Dawelbait’s artworks are etchings with paints on discarded materials from demolished buildings, mostly wood.

They depict a tranquil rugged beauty, with portraits that are distinctly abstract and almost violent in their doodling expressing a strong personality. They show his extensive experience as a fine artist, having exhibited extensively in Italy, UK, Germany and Canada.

“Our idea is to have thought provoking artworks which is why at our gallery we’re happy to exhibit works that we hope to sell and at the same time bring dialogue and conversations that are meaningful.

Our first priority is to give artists a platform to explore ideas freely,” said Asteria Malinzi, the curator for this exhibition from Rangi Gallery.

Rangi are the co-curators of this exhibition together with Alliance Francaise.

Dawelbait’s Spirit of Faces (one square metre) was sold for $4,000.

Although the prices are high for the local market, the gallery supports the artists’ decision in their pricing because the works are of international quality.

The exhibition runs until November 20.

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Karamoja Tour goes off the beaten path

Saturday October 23 2021

Cyclists enjoy some time in the wild in Karamoja during a past tour. PHOTO | COURTESY

Summary

The tour explores the potential of adventure tourism, with cycling or hiking in remote places, in game parks and long stretches of deserted and open land.
Tour cyclists pay $995 per person for the full tour, and $395 for a half tour.
The potential for adventure is high as tourists are seeking immersive, once-in-a lifetime experiences.

By JULIUS BARIGABA

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This year’s annual Tour of Karamoja cycling event will take riders into Kenya’s West Pokot region, the beautiful pristine part of the East African Rift.

Now in its fourth edition, the tour starts today and runs until October 30. It will be six days of immersive activity, covering two wildlife parks, a distance of 500km — 99 percent of which is gravel road surface — and total ascent reaching 5,000 metres above sea level.

For the first time, the tour crosses into Kenya’s West Pokot County for a 63-km special stage, which goes through the scenic hills from Amudat in Uganda to the shores of Lake Turkana in Kenya.

The tour explores the potential of adventure tourism, with cycling or hiking in remote places, in game parks and long stretches of deserted and open land.

“It’s the combination of an authentic local experience, possibility to reach off-the-beaten path areas and a physical challenge. Summing it up: A true immersive experience,” said Theo Vos, co-founder and director of Kara-Tunga Arts and Tours, a local tour company that organises the event.

Adventure lovers who have dared the Tour of Karamoja say the thrill lies in the connection with communities on the trails, being in nature, and experiencing it firsthand through the East African part of the Rift Valley.

For the tourists on the tour, the trail through the game parks, in the midst of wildlife, offers a better experience than game drives. On the bicycle, people feel vulnerable, yet more connected to the wildlife including lions, Vos says.

Ultimate wilderness

Since 2019, the tour of Karamoja has been dubbed Uganda’s ultimate wilderness biking event, whose objective is to give a positive image of northeastern Uganda and promote its pristine tourism.

Kara-Tunga Adventures warns participants before they sign up: It is a challenge for the body, mind and equipment.

The organisers take cyclists through a rigorous test to establish the fitness level, health condition and riding experience before full registration.

Businessman and tour operator Amos Wekesa of Great Lakes Safaris, who has participated in a past tour, said it is a physical and mental challenge and that the cultural and wildlife experiences are the icing on the cake.

The journey starts on the lower savannah plains in Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve, runs through the woodlands of Kenya’s West Pokot onto the Eastern Africa Rift escarpment, and finally slopes into the award winning Kidepo Valley National Park.

Tour cyclists pay $995 per person for the full tour, and $395 for a half tour.

Coming soon after the conclusion of the East African Tour across the region, Scott Rowswell, the Canadian marketer and cycling events organiser said, “People are interested in adventure based tourism. By this I mean tourism based on cycling, hiking in interesting and remote terrain. This is a huge group globally and is a business opportunity to be developed,” he said.

The potential for adventure is high as tourists are seeking immersive, once-in-a lifetime experiences. The Covid-19 pandemic only boosted the need of tourists to leave the all-inclusive resorts, mass-tourism and become more informed about their impact when travelling.

The idea is to travel less, but stay longer for unique experiences.

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