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Lake Turkana Festival- a feast for the senses

Saturday June 09 2012

The clapping, the cow bells and the sound of the waves lapping the shores of Lake Turkana were in concert. Together with the yellow, brown and red colours on the traditional regalia of the communities that live in the area, the annual Lake Turkana Cultural Festival, in Loyangalani was a feast for the senses.

Four years after it was launched, the event has grown tremendously, both in the quality of the performances and the size of the crowd. The sponsorship has also grown, with several companies and government organs putting cash into the event. The German embassy, the brains behind the event and the Nation Media Group are among them.

In 2009, most of the so-called performances at the festival were ritualistic: raw, a bit dull and almost monotonous. The crowd at the event was mostly tourists and expatriates.

That has changed as the event attracts more attention. This year’s edition, which took place between May 18 and 20 was a rich display of cultural dances, authentic fashion developed over the years; music, architecture and the diverse arts of the different ethnic communities that live by Lake Turkana.
In 2009, when it was launched by the then German ambassador to Kenya, Walter Lindner, the idea seemed a bit ambitious. But it has grown, even after Lindner’s return to Berlin, suggesting that he knew a thing or two about the area’s potential. With the discovery of oil in the region, more eyes are now looking in that direction.

According to Margit Hellwig-Boette, the current German ambassador, the Turkana region is strategic to her country, both for political and security reasons. That is the reason why the embassy continues to mobilise funds for the event.

On the three days of lively dances at the annual event, plus a display of bright costumes and riveting music, borrowing heavily from the blend of traditional sounds of Loiyangalani town, the festival’s evolution and future prospects were evident.

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I attended the inaugural edition. It was a small gathering of a few diplomats and Kenyans mostly from Nairobi, some adventurous expatriates and a community of performers from Loiyangalani town.

The raw performances, borrowing from traditional rituals, could go on and on. The focus of the festival then, coming after Kenya’s traumatic post-election violence, was peace-building among the many communities that reside on the shores of Lake Turkana. They include the Samburu, Turkana, El-Molo, Dassanach, Gabbra, Borana, Konso, Wata and the Burji.

Desert Museum

There was also the opening of the Desert Museum in Loyangalani put up by the Italian and the Kenyan governments. Food, fashion and an exhibition on the resilience of the nomads living on the shores of Lake Turkana were also on the menu.

Three editions later, the festival has taken a new turn; retaining some of the first features and bringing in a few additions.

Now, it includes performances from contemporary Kenyan artistes, with mass appeal across the country and a few emerging artistes from the host community. This year, it was Eric Wainaina’s turn, and he managed to blend in very well.

Wrestling, water sports and a well-choreographed fashion show added a fresh splash of colour to the event and some adrenaline.

The talks were also part of the event, bringing into focus some of the issues that are likely to shape the region moving forward. One was a presentation by Dr Hassan Wario of the National Museums of Kenya; the other was a moderated panel discussion on heritage and sustainable development.

Soft diplomacy

For the Germans, who have been the biggest supporters of the festival, the event offered an opportunity for soft diplomacy.

“This is one of the main projects which the embassy is doing in the cultural field,” said Andrea Sasse, head of press and cultural affairs at the German embassy in Nairobi. The embassy official was quick to point out that the event has refocused on sustainable development as the main theme.

Currently, there are a number of German organisations working in the larger Marsabit County, where Loyangalani is located. Economically, the Germans are yet to identify interests they could harness, especially because they are not big on oil but rather into tourism, coffee, new technology and manufactured goods.

“If the Marsabit County decides to switch to solar energy, we could look at it,” joked Margit Hellwig-Boette. “We are not doing this to open up a market. There could be opportunities going forward, but not yet,” she added.

A number of other corporates have associated themselves with the event. Among them is Private Safaris, which offered event organising and logistical support services; the National Museums of Kenya, Lake Turkana Wind Power, Bayer, Veterinaires and Tullow Oil. Others are Equity Bank, Turkish Airlines and USAid.

At the panel discussion, the ambassador clarified that her country was not in Turkana because of the recent oil find. “Actually, prospecting was going on by 2008 before the festival started. I wanted to clarify that we are not here because of oil; we were here long before.”

With growing Chinese interests in Africa, the West has increasingly attempted to woo Africa in the past two or so years.

Only last year, the German chancellor travelled with a group of investors to a number of African countries, Kenya included. This was seen as a way of repositioning Germany to increase its influence in the continent.

“The German investors may not be here already but there are more inquiries and more companies opening shop here; they are here watching,” said the ambassador.

So far, the economic ties between Kenyan and Germany remain fairly stable, with German imports standing at 300 million euros ($370,000,000) and exports at 100 million euros ($124,000,000).

Email: [email protected];
Twitter: @wamicheni

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