By ANTHONY KITIMO

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The Marafa depression in Kenya’s Kilifi County, popularly known as Hell’s Kitchen, is a series of sun-baked gorges and tall chimney-like structures, some rising up to 30 metres high, perfectly formed by water and wind erosion over decades.

Located about 30km from the tourist haven of Malindi at the North Coast, Hell’s Kitchen attracts hikers and wonder seekers who walk its width and breadth in awe.

The depression derives its name from the high temperatures recorded during the day, which range between 35 to 50 degrees celcius. Because of this visits are best done early morning or early evening.

But the gorges are now threatened by accelerated erosion.

Over the years, rapid climate change has caused intensified crumbling of the sandstone forcing the keepers of the natural attraction to move view points and access roads more than four times in the past decade for safety reasons.

“Climate change is expanding the gullies and we have been forced to make adjustments to secure view points and change tour routes.

''As this happens, we consider it a blessing as now it takes longer to move around, meaning more income to us,” said Kazungu Tuva, a tour guide.

As the gullies, called Nyari by the locals, expand through the erosion they are exposing layers of sandstone in sparkling whites, pinks, oranges and deep crimsons, creating a magical imagery of the gorges.

Tuva said the erosion has nonetheless added beauty to the gorge, particularly at sundown when the light changes and falls at different angles into the gorge.

The guides charge about $3 for domestic visitors and between $5 and $10 per person for foreigners for a guided walk, spiced with folklore and natural history narration about the site.

“We are using the light play and sparkling beauty of the gorges to market the place and sell tours.

''We have been receiving more tourists, especially in the evenings, who want to see and capture the spectacle of the jagged outcrops of hard rocks,” said Tuva.

Steeped in myth

While scientists say Hell’s Kitchen is as a result of geological formations, the local community attributes it to divine wrath.

The myth is that a rich and extravagant family that lived at Marafa would indulge in bathing in valuable cow milk. God, furious at their excess, punished them by opening the ground beneath their home.

“What we know is that it was a punishment from God and the symbolically milky white and blood red sandstone of Hell’s Kitchen serves as a reminder against wastefulness and exhorbitance,” said James Kalu, a resident.

He said the gorges are also used as a prayer site where Kaya (shrine) elders give offerings to God.