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Coffees, from bean to brew and everything in between

Thursday August 05 2021
Serving coffee ice-cream at the Masai Coffee

Serving coffee ice-cream at the Masai Coffee in Kariobangi, Nairobi. PHOTO | COURTESY

By SARAH BAKATA

Nairobi can still throw a good surprise. A detour into the city’s Eastlands led us to the light industry area of Kariobangi.

We found ourselves at this compound, with a big gate, tight security, and a notice to sanitise and wear a mask.

Out of the vehicle, we were met with some shrubbery that seemed out of place in the compound but on close inspection turned out to be coffee plants.

In the massive godown was like walking into a theme park, where only coffee matters. Everything coffee. From bean to brew and everything in-between.

This is the Masai Coffee and we were here for a late lunch at a Korean restaurant but all we could see was coffee. In sacks, in bottles, in neat packaging. Then coffee machines, dispensers, grinders small and big, and sieves for grading beans. Sacks hanging from the ceiling as décor were eye catching.

Korean lunch at the Masai Coffee in Kariobangi

Korean lunch at the Masai Coffee in Kariobangi in Nairobi. PHOTO | COURTESY

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A long table, long enough to accommodate our group, was set for a meal. The godown has distinct areas. The storage area, a shop where coffee is sold, the coffee shop where the dining area is, and the kitchen. It all blends in as you walk in and out and through. The distinction is the usage of space.

Masai Coffee is open for factory tours, which is why we were here; and, of course, lunch.

We were invited to the kitchen area to be served the buffet-style lunch of sweet potato noodles, kimchi, peppery white radish, sweet and sour sticky wings, vegetable rice and spicy beef strips.

The noodles were sweet and just perfect for the savoury kimchi and peppery white radish. The wings were tender.

Taste it to believe it

Dessert was a choice of straight-from-the machine, freshly made coffee, whipped cream or coffee ice cream with a sprinkle of coffee flakes, or moringa or baobab powder. Yes, the latter is the latest super food fad. I love the taste of baobab powder but I cannot describe it because you need to taste it yourself. It was a hard choice, so I picked the coffee ice cream with a little bit of everything.

Then came the coffee. From cappuccino to a simple hot water-in-cup brewed black coffee. I went for a latte. This was followed by a choice of a coffee and liquor cocktail. The Korean-speaking young Kenyan outdid herself, mixing all sorts of cocktails, and they were all good.

The Masai Coffee in Kariobangi Light Industries

The Masai Coffee in Kariobangi Light Industries, Nairobi. PHOTO | COURTESY

All through, a mounted antique radio set blared befitting soothing Southern Blues and we later learned that the company also runs a communication venture.

Sated, we moved to the shop for everything coffee where we sat down for a short history of the company and its products as start of the tour.

GoldRock International Ent. Company started out in Kenya in 2001. It is run by South Korean and Kenyan partners who also own a farm where they grow coffee for export, mainly to South Korea.

It also buys and sells from other growers; roasts for coffee buying companies from as far as the US and the UK. It deals in both green and black coffee beans and also grades them for buyers.

Masai Coffee also holds coffee barista training classes for those just interested in coffee to staff of a limited number of students for a three-week course of three-hours daily at a $400 fee.

The tour ends with a walk into the history of coffee grading and milling, and takes between one and three hours.

GoldRock is exploring the use of other native crops to make soaps, creams, toothpaste and lotions, so beyond coffee, one can buy these products made from Moringa, baobab and other crops.

If you are a coffee connoisseur come ready to spend.

The lunch was Ksh1,500 ($14) per person but the factory tour is free, though you have to book at least one day in advance. They are open Monday to Friday 8am to 4pm. Saturday is half day, 8am to 1pm.

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