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Perfect roast fish at Nyumbani Restaurant

Thursday May 25 2017
fish

The oven roasted full Nile Perch at Nyumbani Restaurant is a departure from the common deep fried fish in Nairobi. PHOTO | NMG

Nairobi has a variety of restaurants and informal eateries that cater for a host of palates, but only a few take pride in fish dishes.

Forget about Ocean Basket, with its high-end sophisticated menu of seafood. I am talking regular everyday fish — Nile Perch and Tilapia — that the majority of East Africans know.

Personally, I prefer sea fish. I find it more tasty and there is such a wide variety to choose from. So it took some coaxing for me to give in to talk that a visit to Nyumbani Restaurant, on Diani Road off Ole Dume Road, would have me singing praises of fresh water fish.

I gave the place a visit early afternoon on a Saturday. Set on almost half an acre with the lush greenery of old Nairobi, with a colonial house serving as the kitchen and reception area, Nyumbani is a pleasant outdoor restaurant. The tables are spaced out under umbrellas and small tents set around the compound for the privacy of each party.

I did not bother with the menu. The roast Nile Perch came highly recommended. And that is what I ordered, to be accompanied by fried plantain, and mchicha (traditional vegetables).

Ten minutes later, my steaming hot order arrived. The fish looked perfectly oven roasted. It was evenly layered with a green aromatic paste (chef’s secret mix).

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Professional tip

I learnt from the Master Chef TV show that to find out if your fish is cooked, you put a bread knife through the fleshiest part and press the knife on your lips. If the temperature of the knife feels just right (neither too hot nor too cool), and the fish is firm but moist, then it is cooked. And that was how my fish was. Well cooked.

There were no frills to the plating. The garnishing was basic: A few onion rings and slices of tomato, cucumber and pieces of lime.

The first piece of fish I put in my mouth simply melted in the saliva that was already running from the aroma. I had had more than three mouthfuls of fish before I realised that I had plantains and vegetables too.

The condiments of sour cream, hot chilli and the green paste complemented the fish perfectly.

The plantain was fried to perfection and was almost sweet on the palate. The vegetables were fresh and mushy and slightly salted, a good contrast with the plantain and fish.

But the fish was the star of the meal. Moist, firm and well cooked, it was simply worlds apart from the deep fried fare that is common in most restaurants. Deep fried fish tends to get overcooked, the bones get crunchy and the flesh retracts to the bone, leaving you with less fish flesh to enjoy. Oven roasting leaves more flesh and the bones are easier to pick out.

Nyumbani has taken a simple common meal and given it a touch of class.

The full fish costs Ksh1,500 ($14) and can be eaten by four people. A plate of plantain is Ksh450 ($4) and the mchicha is pricey at Ksh250 ($2.5) for one serving — which can be shared. Beer goes for Ksh250 ($2.5) and a plate of ugali (maize meal) Ksh100 (US cents 10). The restaurant is open every day of the week from 9am to 10pm, including public holidays.

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