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Last adrenalin rush at the Bujagali rapids

Sunday March 20 2011
michael

Rafter Michael Hodgson on a hunt for less intimidating rapids at the upper Bujagali Falls section; Kayaking enthusiasts, both local and international have been enjoying the sport here for decades. All that will now be history; On the calm section of the river, boat rides are very popular with tourists. Photo/MORGAN MBABAZI

On Sunday February 27, it was business unusual as lovers of high adrenalin sports prepared to take their last rides down the Bujagali Falls — considered one of East Africa’s extreme adventure capital — famous for the extreme sports of white water rafting, kayaking, bungee jumping, quad biking, mountain bike tours, boat riding and deep water fishing.

It is a festering 27°C — the perfect weather for a rafting expedition — but for the faint hearted it was good enough for at least an easy dip in the emerald waters of the Nile.

Everyone was in a hurry. Rafters, tour guides, boat operators, swimmers, even environmental lobbyists were purposefully walking about.

Half naked children were trying to get their last catch of tilapia; as others did their laundry in the traditional river bank style — a quick dipping of the dirty clothes into the water and repeatedly slapping on the rocks by the river bank.

Officially, February 27 was the last day of sporting on the Bujagali stretch of the Nile ahead of the flooding of the five rapids spread over three kilometres of the river at the uppermost part of the Nile.

A stretch of nearly three kilometres covering Donald Duck, Bujagali Falls, Easy Rider, Sibling Rivalry and Big Brother/Silverback, boat rides, tours of “spirit” islands and fishing activity will be history.

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The flooding of the rapids is part of the final stages of the construction of the Bujagali hydropower dam. The flooding will make generation of electricity possible.

So on this day, water sports lovers were out in force. There are over 200 rafters from Adrift Adventures and Nile River Explorers, getting their gear ready.

The raft masters are tying the harness on the left wrist of each rafter. The kayakers — most of whom are really first timers — are looking a tad terrified by the sheer force of the water.

On seeing the amount of water reverberating before their eyes, some get apprehensive and try to wiggle out of the excursion.

“Not this one. I’ll start at the next rapid. See, I am kind of inexperienced, so am not going to go all the way. I won’t do the tough rapids. I’ve actually chickened out of this one,” says Michael Hodgson, one of three kayakers who would not dare the Grade IV Donald Duck rapid at the entrance of Bujagali Falls.

Hodgson’s fear is what tells the story of Bujagali Falls.

White water rafting has been a popular sport at Bujagali since 1996.

The allure of the cascading rapids is such that it invites even those that have no affinity for water sports, which is why Hodgson was keen on trying the rapids just once before they are flooded and lost forever.

“It’s sad that this rapid will be extinct but I am excited to be part of the last activity here. The experience here is one of the best in the world, I am told. I live in Kenya but you don’t find many of this type,” he said as he lifted his kayak out of the water to launch his plunge at the next rapid — another Grade IV Bujagali Falls — which is actually a big, two-in-one rapid, the size of Grade V rapids on most rivers, including Africa’s other best, the Zambezi in Zimbabwe.

At this particular Bujagali Falls rapid, the water hits the first rock and gushes over before flowing 15 metres and taking another mighty fall.

This too, the young kayakers chickened out of. They carried their kayaks to the bank, all the way to the softer fall of Grade III Easy Rider. After this easy conquest they entered their accomplishments into their travel diaries for their children’s bedtime stories.

As the rookies nervously waited at the bank, the experienced kayakers and rafters were having a ride of their life, precariously tilting, floating over and momentarily getting buried under the big waves.

Meanwhile tour guides are looking about with some degree of anxiety and concern. The rapids, their major source of livelihood will soon be history.

They are hankering for the next tourist to make the last buck from this last day of sporting on the river.

A harried young man approaches us and tells us not to waste time but to jump onto his boat since it’s too late for us to get onto the rafting teams.

In the end, the boat ride is our best shot. Henry Kaweireku, our guide, has been operating here for the past 10 years.

He charges Ush80,000 ($34.3) an hour but because most people are here to raft, he is short on clients.

He offers to give us a boat ride and tour of the islands at half price. After all, he won’t be doing this much longer.

It is clear he will miss his trade at this spot, but so will the companies in the business of adventure sport.

Yasin Kabunga, an official of Adrift Adventures says the loss of this first section of the rapids will take away some of the excitement of rafting on the Nile, considering that these rapids are some of the biggest.

These are Donald Duck, Bujagali Falls, Easy Rider, Sibling Rivalry and Big Brother/Silverback.

That said, there are only two raftable rivers in Africa, and the Nile still has plenty to offer; hence clients are still happy to challenge the remaining rapids.

According to Kabunga, rafting the Nile is exceptional due to the sheer size of the rapids.

Even the rapids that are technically smaller produce outstanding waves and strong tides several metres high.

For instance, Grade IV Bujagali, is at least twice as big and exciting as grade V rapids on many other rivers.

On a regular basis, rafters are thrown off the raft boat but are hauled back on by more waves.

On this occasion, it was the controller of one of teams that couldn’t withstand the strength of Bujagali tide, but the harness was on hand to do its job and he scrambled back onto the boat.

At the nearby bungee jump tower near the Jinja Nile Resort, 14 people are happy to take the 144 metre jump.

But after the dam inundates the reservoir, the bungee height will reduce by two metres — allowing the clients to do water touch jumps.

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