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Lake Elementeita: The best kept secret

Thursday October 16 2014
Lakeelementeita

A view of Lake Elmenteita. PHOTO | FILE

On the floor of the Great Rift Valley, running from Lake Turkana in Kenya’s north to Lake Magadi in south, is a chain of lakes that are considered important to bird life in Kenya. Some have been recognised as World Heritage Sites.

One such lake, Elementeita, located two hours west of Nairobi by road, is one of the smallest Rift Valley lakes, and easily overlooked because it is sandwiched between two larger and more popular lakes, Naivasha to the southeast, and Nakuru to the northwest. Lakes Nakuru and Naivasha receive more visitors, but Elmentaita is a must for those looking for something off the beaten path.

Elmenteita is a small, windswept, alkaline lake whose waters are green from the abundant algae. The name of the lake is derived from the Maa language meaning “dusty place,” from the clouds of dust that are blown by the wind when the water recedes. The lake is located in the Soysambu conservancy, a 48,000-acre rangeland established in 2006 on land belonging to the Delamere estate.

To the west of the lake are the Elementeita Badlands, a series of rock formations that include the “Sleeping Warrior,” so named by the local Maasai because it resembles a reclining human figure.

The lake is shallow, with the depth averaging about one meter, covering an area ranging between 19 and 22 square kilometers depending on the levels of the water.

I spent a night at the Lake Elementeita Serena Camp, one of the resorts built in response to the increasing popularity of the lake with nature lovers and tourists alike. The camp consists of 24 luxury tents near the lake shore, and blend in with the natural environment.

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The Serena Camp is naturally cool, with a steady breeze blowing up from the lake, and has a panoramic view of the lake and from the tents, one can see waves crashing onto the shore.

The chirping of birds is a constant background sound, an indication of just how many bird species can be found here. With such natural beauty all around, it is easy to forget that the main Nairobi-Nakuru highway is only two kilometers away.

The camp, in conjunction with the Soysambu Conservancy, organises tours around the lake. On one of these tours, I saw the Cape buffalo, eland and waterbuck, as well as numerous bird species, including a pair of crested cranes, plovers, Egyptian geese and the resident pelicans and flamingoes. The camp has a resident naturalist, who explains the significance of the various species at the lake, and how they all interact.

The lake is the only breeding area for great white pelicans in East Africa due to the occurrence of rocky lava outcrops on which the birds lay their eggs. It is also home to a large resident population of lesser flamingo.

However, as the camp’s resident naturalist pointed out, the water level in the lake was rising due to an unexpected increase in water inflow occasioned by heavy rainfall in the Mau Forest and Aberdare ranges. As the water level rises, the lake’s salinity reduces, which in turn affects the levels of blue green algae that the flamingoes feed on. This has led to migration of flamingoes to Lake Natron in Tanzania.

At the southern end of the lake are hot springs in which tilapia breed, a source of food for a number of bird species.

The conservancy covers a large area of the shoreline and is home to a significant population of wild animals, with 50 major species identified — zebra, gazelle, Rothschild’s giraffe, buffalo and warthog. As a result, the area has experienced a rise in the population of great cats such as leopards and lions as they hunt the herbivores.

The lake is bordered by an escarpment resulting in a dramatic drop and spectacular views not far from the Nairobi-Nakuru highway. At one viewpoint overlooking the lake, the Serena Camp organises a sundowner to welcome and entertain guests, and the views of the sunset over the lake and the Badlands in the distance are quite spectacular.

The camp and the conservancy represent a shift towards private management of conservation areas in partnership with local communities.

Lake Elmenteita is arguably the most beautiful of all the Rift Valley lakes, surrounded by stunning geographical features, and it supports a large variety of animals in a beautiful conservation area. With its increasing popularity among leisure travellers, the lake provides a unique experience, being both convenient to reach and far from the hustle and bustle of modern living.

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