Spice up your holiday in Zanzibar

Not long ago the name Zanzibar would conjure up the heady aroma of spices that centuries ago earned Unguja and Pemba the name of the Spice Islands.

The spice plantations may have taken a back seat economically and are no longer the mainstay of the island, but they are still the most common feature on the island.

Tourism is in big time. Lately, Zanzibar has become a byword for a dream getaway, home to an international film festival, the Zanzibar Film Festival; the Sauti za Busara international music festival; the exclusive Zanzibar Serena Inn and of course the enchanting Stone Town, and the endless sandy beaches among other historical attractions.

February saw the influx of music lovers to the island for the seventh edition of the Sauti za Busara music festival.

According to festival organisers, the festival brings with it a 400 per cent increase in tourist arrivals in the month of February alone. This is modern Zanzibar at its best.

To some, Zanzibar is still simply the island 40km off the coast of East Africa, that conjures up mystery, intrigue and a fascinating history going back centuries to the time of the ancient Greeks, when a guide book (The Peryphis of the Erythraen Sea) described the island in detail, referring to its lush vegetation and attractive population.

Since then the island has received visitors and absorbed the customs of a dozen lands resulting in a heady mix of Africa and Arabia with influences from Europe, China and Portugal thrown in.

Step ashore at the quaint harbour or even at the modest airport and you know straight off that you are heading for an experience that appeals to all the senses.

Life here is not so much set by the clock as by the rhythm of the tides and monsoons that used to bear fleets of dhows to and from the Arabian Gulf — and a lot of the romance still remains.

But with the modernisation and commercialisation of almost every aspect of life on the island, there is another side to the island that is not all peace and tranquility as you are as likely to get mown down by someone riding a noisy piki-piki recklessly around the corners of the narrow alleyways as by a wandering cow.

And your first encounter with an inhabitant of Stone Town will probably be with a tout selling anything from a room in his family’s “hotel” to a tour of the island.

The city centre is a beehive of activity, with travellers, merchants, tourists and locals going about their business under the sweltering heat.

Nevertheless, the good far outweighs the bad and you will take home fond memories of this charming island. The people are friendly and easygoing, typical islanders.

Being only a few kilometres off the coast of Tanzania and Kenya, getting there is a simple matter as several airlines fly in from various hubs around East Africa including Nairobi.

An alternative is to find your way to Dar es Salaam from where you can embark on a leisurely ferry trip across the Zanzibar Channel that takes a couple of hours. Or you can save time and ride the hydrofoil that does the trip much faster.

Zanzibar has a colourful and well documented history.

After centuries of semi-autonomy, the island fell under the control of Oman in 1828, an event that ushered in a period of flourishing trade in slaves, ivory, cloves and spices and that four years later, the Sultan himself, Seyyid Said, took the bold step of moving from Oman to Zanzibar.

A succession of sultans held sway, but under the watchful eye of the British, right up until Independence and the bloody overthrow of the last sultan in January 1964, just one month later, put an end to the dynasty.

Better times returned gradually with the incorporation of the island with the mainland to make the United Republic of Tanzania leading to the worth of the capital’s twisted streets and quaint buildings being recognised for their historical and cultural value, and Stone Town, to use its colloquial name, beings selected by Unesco as one of the world’s hundred most important sites.

The House of Wonders — and what a name that is for just one of a number of tall, white palaces that line the quayside — when completed in 1883, was the only building in the region to be lit by electric light and to feature a lift. Wonders indeed. Once a palace, it is now a museum.

Then there is the mansion that belonged to the notorious slave trader, Tippu Tip and the Arab fort and Christian cathedral, the latter built on the site of the ancient slave market.

There are a number of interesting ruins dotted around Zanzibar Town and indeed all over the island that can be reached by taking a short excursion and are often included in the so-called Spice Tours.

Finding accommodation is the least of worries for tourists as Zanzibar caters for every pocket.

Starting with the lower end of the market in Stone Town, there is a large selection of budget guest houses, most costing about the same and with similar facilities of fans, mosquito nets and some with private bathrooms available from $20 per night depending upon whether it is high or low season.

Just behind the Anglican cathedral is the Riverman Hotel which is made more appealing by the friendly and helpful staff and the pleasant breakfast served on the verandah.

Then there is the Flamingo Guest House at $25 a night with bathroom and breakfast thrown in, but for particularly good value there is the Jambo Guest House that offers sparklingly clean rooms, a good breakfast and free tea and coffee throughout the day. Somewhat upmarket at $30 per night, is the Haven Guest House.

In the Shangani area of Stone Town which is probably the most picturesque part of the city, are a number of mid-range hotels costing around $60 and the best of these is the atmospheric Baghani House Hotel, with rooms that are full of character located for the most part on the first floor and furnished in the Zanzibar-style.

Rated with five stars (the only such hotel in Stone Town) and among the select “Luxury Small Hotels of the World” is the Zanzibar Serena Inn.

The Inn’s creation stemmed from a 1987 initiative by the Aga Khan Development Agency to revive the architectural and economic fortunes of Stone Town by the sympathetic conversion of two sea front buildings, one of which was once the house of Sir John Kirk, the first British Resident (governor), the other the redundant telecommunications headquarters which were combined into a small but luxurious hotel.

That the initiative has been a conspicuous success is clear in that it has spurred a revival in what was a run down area of the town.

Rated with five stars (the only such hotel in Stone Town), the Inn comprises fifty-one luxurious bedrooms, a sea front restaurant, bar and swimming pool besides other amenities that include its own pristine beach facility at Mangapwani for the exclusive use of its guests.

The 30-minute ride from the Inn to Mangapwani by private dalla-dalla (an open-sided taxi) is a scenic tour in its own right.

Other attractions

Outside Zanzibar Town there are other options for those who feel like greener surroundings with sea views away from the hassle of the centre.

One such is the Mtoni Marine Centre that offers two and three bedroom bungalows from $150 per night and is particularly suitable for families or small groups.

Eating out too offers a bewildering variety of choice but with emphasis on restaurants offering Swahili cuisine; perhaps the best of these in terms of décor, atmosphere and food is the Monsoon Restaurant located between the Old Fort and the sea.

Mercury’s, named in honour of Queen vocalist Freddie Mercury who was born nearby, is good for sea grills and its terrace bar is an ideal spot for taking a sundowner while watching the passing parade.

For those who are seeking the extraordinary, taking the road less travelled to the eastern coast or the northern tip of the island is advised.

It is still possible to find serene and rural beach front villages in Zanzibar.

On this island, nowhere is far away and taxis and dalla-dallas are plentiful, so for those who want to combine a beach holiday go for it and for this my pick would be the Bluebay Beach Resort near the village of Kiwengwa on the island’s east side.

It lies on a beautiful beach yet is unspoiled and tranquil with every amenity amid extensive gardens.

Zanzibar has been referred to as a “paradise on earth” and while that may be a slight overstatement there is still plenty there to justify the claim.